My projection for a mechanical trajectory fizzled a bit,
however a ton of time was thrown into the rusty 40 project.
After cleaning the pile of stored junk inside,
the seat was finally installed.
It had been over a year now.
Finding the mounting holes in the floor was easier than expected.
Next was the brakes.
The green 40 donated the master cylinder,
and everything bolted up like it should.
Here's where things took a turn.
The backing plates needed more fitting then I thought,
and I got a little distracted.
The hood project had been fermenting in my mind.
A visualization appeared and I had to pursue the idea.
I tried cutting the nose off,
and connecting the two pieces with sheetmetal clamps.
This actually worked better than planned.
The problem was the stretch to match also created a slope,
right there at the beer can.
Using some welding rod,
the desired curve matched up farther back.
Cutting the slot relieved the stress.
Now I can get a grip of what needs to be done.
but a time consuming distraction had already appeared.
Maybe you could see from the above pics.
Now that this has been sitting off the alley for a couple months,
the marine layer fog has really taken it's toll.
There was a time I would have been happy to continually oil up the body,
like a greased pig.
Something happened and I started sanding the top.
For true painters please don't watch.
I know this is the most hacked way to do this.
My funds and space are too limited for sand or media blasting,
and truthfully I don't think there's a way to get rid of all the rust.
since the rust grows like a root into the thin metal.
I've been wanting to do this for a long time anyway.
The top was scrubbed with soap, 80 grit, wire wheel, scouring pad...
then dosed with some Ospho-like rust converter.
Now for the secret weapon.
Doesn't this stuff look gnarly?
It's that amercoat 235 epoxy primer that I rave about.
I've been testing this stuff on "dirty" surfaces for years,
and found a good recipe.
The main goal is to make a solid sealed protective coating,
so no air or water reacts with the iron.
The first layer is super thinned,
soaking in to the grains of the steel.
After that I used a little filler to smooth out some of the pits and dinks.
This primer takes a half day to harden,
and 3 days to really cure.
Hammer and dolly work can even be done without chipping.
A second coat of the same primer different color,
and more thin splotches of this epoxy filler.
In the old days it was common to add different fillers to epoxy resin,
creating various densities and strengths.
Now they premix it and this stuff is one of the better versions.
The idea here is to have multiple epoxy layers,
not epoxy paint with polyester resin based filler.
Most of the spots left were really thin,
in addition to the majority sanded off.
Almost like varnishing,
adding the layers after sanding to smooth it out.
The red primer was sanded down almost too smooth.
Bummed there's no picture.
The last main coat of primer was (also) ROLLED on,
using the tiniest rollers my wife could find!
The trick here is to start really late in the day,
so the layer doesn't skin over and make roller ridges.
The other trick is to take a sip of beer after each tray filling.
For now my choice is the banquet of beers - coors cans...
The beer isn't what spurred me on to this part of the project.
After a nice hot day to bake the paint,
the evenings have been cool and windy,
the best time to sand and paint.
The fumes and dust aren't directly going in my lungs.
Now I'm totally screwed as the top is so smooth it doesn't match the bottom.
Whatever the case it'll give me some time to see if this concoction works,
and how it endures over time.
I really got to get my hands dirty with mechanical stuff now!
TP
however a ton of time was thrown into the rusty 40 project.
 |
| 1940 ford coupe chopped channeled sectioned |
After cleaning the pile of stored junk inside,
the seat was finally installed.
It had been over a year now.
Finding the mounting holes in the floor was easier than expected.
 |
| aluminum seat |
Next was the brakes.
The green 40 donated the master cylinder,
and everything bolted up like it should.
 |
| feo |
Here's where things took a turn.
The backing plates needed more fitting then I thought,
and I got a little distracted.
 |
| hood surgery |
The hood project had been fermenting in my mind.
A visualization appeared and I had to pursue the idea.
 |
| nosed |
I tried cutting the nose off,
and connecting the two pieces with sheetmetal clamps.
 |
| sloped |
This actually worked better than planned.
The problem was the stretch to match also created a slope,
right there at the beer can.
 |
| slot |
Using some welding rod,
the desired curve matched up farther back.
Cutting the slot relieved the stress.
 |
| rough fit |
Now I can get a grip of what needs to be done.
but a time consuming distraction had already appeared.
Maybe you could see from the above pics.
 |
| patina or rust? |
Now that this has been sitting off the alley for a couple months,
the marine layer fog has really taken it's toll.
There was a time I would have been happy to continually oil up the body,
like a greased pig.
 |
| sandy |
Something happened and I started sanding the top.
For true painters please don't watch.
I know this is the most hacked way to do this.
My funds and space are too limited for sand or media blasting,
and truthfully I don't think there's a way to get rid of all the rust.
since the rust grows like a root into the thin metal.
I've been wanting to do this for a long time anyway.
 |
| scrubbed |
The top was scrubbed with soap, 80 grit, wire wheel, scouring pad...
then dosed with some Ospho-like rust converter.
 |
| amercoat 235 |
Now for the secret weapon.
Doesn't this stuff look gnarly?
It's that amercoat 235 epoxy primer that I rave about.
I've been testing this stuff on "dirty" surfaces for years,
and found a good recipe.
The main goal is to make a solid sealed protective coating,
so no air or water reacts with the iron.
 |
| body shop |
The first layer is super thinned,
soaking in to the grains of the steel.
After that I used a little filler to smooth out some of the pits and dinks.
This primer takes a half day to harden,
and 3 days to really cure.
Hammer and dolly work can even be done without chipping.
 |
| more primer |
A second coat of the same primer different color,
and more thin splotches of this epoxy filler.
 |
| system 3 quick fair filler |
In the old days it was common to add different fillers to epoxy resin,
creating various densities and strengths.
Now they premix it and this stuff is one of the better versions.
The idea here is to have multiple epoxy layers,
not epoxy paint with polyester resin based filler.
Most of the spots left were really thin,
in addition to the majority sanded off.
Almost like varnishing,
adding the layers after sanding to smooth it out.
 |
| primer coat #3 |
The red primer was sanded down almost too smooth.
Bummed there's no picture.
The last main coat of primer was (also) ROLLED on,
using the tiniest rollers my wife could find!
The trick here is to start really late in the day,
so the layer doesn't skin over and make roller ridges.
The other trick is to take a sip of beer after each tray filling.
For now my choice is the banquet of beers - coors cans...
 |
| coors banquet beer |
The beer isn't what spurred me on to this part of the project.
After a nice hot day to bake the paint,
the evenings have been cool and windy,
the best time to sand and paint.
The fumes and dust aren't directly going in my lungs.
 |
| 1940 ford coupe chopped channeled and sectioned |
Now I'm totally screwed as the top is so smooth it doesn't match the bottom.
Whatever the case it'll give me some time to see if this concoction works,
and how it endures over time.
 |
| chopped top |
I really got to get my hands dirty with mechanical stuff now!
TP
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