03 December 2012

how to - f100 patch panel in 3 easy steps!

A buddy of mine had this nagging problem with his ford f100 pickup.
One of those little things
that anyone with an old car or motorcycle can understand.
Mike knows it's an easy 3 step process to do a patch panel.

ford f100

Okay first here's some background music...

Since you will be reading this you won't notice the videos not synced!
ford f100 hood lip patch panel


The patch panel is alot larger than it needs to be.
There is a compound curve so trimming is needed.

Template is always handy.
cut line

Cut line is marked with tape.
holey chit!

Holey Chit!
So there's the reason for the cancer.
There is a double lip and it's perfect place for storing old leaves and water.
Probably a good idea to keep this area clean!
wire wheel and trusty grinder

This was a bit of a surprise.
Removing hood and sandblasting is one way,
but this is a work truck.
A good wire-wheeling will have to do.
rust trimming

The rust line is gapped out with the grinder.
Love the grinder.
magnets + patch panel

These little rare earth magnets are perfect for holding in the patch panel strip.
If they get hot they die so get a stack of them.
welded up

After some welding and grinding,
a good scrubbing again with the wire-wheel to prep for epoxy primer.
epoxy undercoat

I've been testing this Amercoat 235 primer on rusty surfaces for a while,
and it's strong stuff over time.
I'll thin it with some acetone or reducer,
and it really seeps into the pores of the metal.

This time I did both sides,
and also the back side of the patch piece,
not too close to the weld line though.
like an ostrich burying head in hole

So now you know why Chief (RPU) was parked out on the street!
Was easier to work in the protected garage,
especially with the periodic rain.
Really it was cause I as too lazy to keep hooking up the battery!
Don't trust electronic ignitions when welding.
brace face

Spending that couple hours making those sheetmetal clamps has paid off.
This took my whole set of 13.

perich brothers (and sister): liar's club - little helpers

They really made it easier to position and hold the patch panel.
homemade sheetmetal clamps

The little TIG was pulled out for this one.
My gaps were a little large so didn't use the 040 tungsten,
the 1/16 worked just fine.
weldcraft tig torch

This took time to weld.
First a bunch of little tacks - grinding...
then filler welds - grinding...
then more filler welds - grinding...
daytime tack welded

Always jumping around to keep the heat down.
Not me jumping around -  the location of the welds.
night time finish welded

By early evening everything was welded up,
but it was too late to get any real hammering in.

That inner panel made it difficult to do bodywork.
Fortunately I've got a good selection of hammering tools.
hammer time

It didn't take long to do not that perfect of a job.
After more of the old primer was scuffed off,
it was time to slap on the epoxy goodness.
epoxy + mini-roller

The epoxy smell is a knockout.
I had to tell the kids to get out of the area so many times.
The more you tell them the less they listen!
They only wanted to use that mini-roller.
Macey painting assistant.

Time to dry.
Chief finally back in happy home.
Mike's got a bitchin small block Ford in there,
really makes me want to get the 40 running.
1953, 1940 & 1929 FORD

The next day the paint was dry enough to hammer,
but not cured enough to flake off.
That's one thing I really like about this primer,
it's a heckuva strong mixture.
After a bit more smacking with the hammers,
it was time for some filler.

I really like that Evercoat Rage.
After an hour in the sun,
the stuff sands smooth with the DA and no clogging.
(150/220 grit)
partially sanded

Now time for the last primer coat,
and hopefully everything will set up and not chip off!
final primer coat

Of course as soon as I rolled the paint on,
it started to sprinkle.
Not a heavy rain so not too difficult to cover without ruining my awesome roll job.

Since there's a couple layers of chemicals on here,
I'd let it cure for a couple days,
and see what happens.
Than either sand it smooth for the matching rattlecan,
or touch up any spots that may have shrank or whatever.
bitchin 1953 FORD F100


So that's how you do it in 3 easy steps!


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