It seemed like only a couple weeks ago I had made a clean work bench in the garage.
Somehow it was reduced to a 1 by 2 foot wide workspace!
That's all I really need actually.
Today's project (actually a couple days ago) was rebuilding a Ford motorcraft 2100 carburetor.
I've done a bunch of carburetors 94's, 97's and bigger 4-barrels,
but not much inbetween.
Well there was a couple chevy 2 barrels but it has been a while.
Anyway you get the idea it's not a daily occurence.
Old buddy CopMike donated this one to the cause.
Thanks dude!
At first it looked complicated but that's cause of the choke contraption.
After further inspection,
I found that the later models had a choke slow-down mechanism too,
and the casting had broken off on this one.
It is that hole next to the 3-bolt flange there.
A quick teardown and the carb was definitely rebuildable,
but that cracked hole was bugging me.
After some internet searching,
I found a replacement parts store replacement is over $200!
Ouch!
A rebuild on ebay would run at least $100,
and a questionable core is about half that.
There seemed to be many Autolite and Motorcraft available,
but not all these carbs are the same.
Ford Autolite and Motorcraft 2100 carburetors
The main issue is there are a ton of different venturi sizes,
the big hole diameter.
.98, 1.01, 1.08, 1.14, 1.23...
Even though this is a 2-barrel,
the 2100 model came on various ford engines from 221-260-289-302-351-390... ci's.
According to those in the know,
each carburetor is tied to a specific engine,
and over carbing usually makes less power.
Great.
Now I had better find out what the venturi size was on this old one.
Fortunately it was 1.08,
which is the size needed for a 302/5.0.
Since a rebuild kit was only $15,
the choice was clear.
At first glance the instructions looked a little intimidating,
but exploded diagrams always look like that at first.
This is actually a really simple carburetor,
like a large holley or ford 94.
Somehow I did backspray myself in the eye with some carb cleaner.
After that it was safer to clean with some denatured alcohol and a brush.
A short while later,
and the puzzle was reassembled.
If you read the book,
old John Muir was not a fan of the electronic chokes,
especially if you are in a warmer climate.
Later on I'll figure out a basic pull lever or something,
like a hot rod should.
A quick mock-up and it looked like the carb belonged there.
It should cause it was on that manifold!
Yeah I really strung you guys along on this one huh!
Not much substance really,
but it is an important piece of the project.
TP
Somehow it was reduced to a 1 by 2 foot wide workspace!
That's all I really need actually.
 |
| typical perich work bench |
Today's project (actually a couple days ago) was rebuilding a Ford motorcraft 2100 carburetor.
I've done a bunch of carburetors 94's, 97's and bigger 4-barrels,
but not much inbetween.
Well there was a couple chevy 2 barrels but it has been a while.
Anyway you get the idea it's not a daily occurence.
 |
| ford motorcraft 2100 carburetor |
Old buddy CopMike donated this one to the cause.
Thanks dude!
At first it looked complicated but that's cause of the choke contraption.
 |
| busted ford motorcraft 2100 carburetor |
After further inspection,
I found that the later models had a choke slow-down mechanism too,
and the casting had broken off on this one.
It is that hole next to the 3-bolt flange there.
A quick teardown and the carb was definitely rebuildable,
but that cracked hole was bugging me.
 |
| carburetor teardown |
After some internet searching,
I found a replacement parts store replacement is over $200!
Ouch!
A rebuild on ebay would run at least $100,
and a questionable core is about half that.
There seemed to be many Autolite and Motorcraft available,
but not all these carbs are the same.
Ford Autolite and Motorcraft 2100 carburetors
The main issue is there are a ton of different venturi sizes,
the big hole diameter.
.98, 1.01, 1.08, 1.14, 1.23...
Even though this is a 2-barrel,
the 2100 model came on various ford engines from 221-260-289-302-351-390... ci's.
According to those in the know,
each carburetor is tied to a specific engine,
and over carbing usually makes less power.
Great.
Now I had better find out what the venturi size was on this old one.
Fortunately it was 1.08,
which is the size needed for a 302/5.0.
Since a rebuild kit was only $15,
the choice was clear.
 |
| autolite motorcraft 2100 carburetor diagram |
At first glance the instructions looked a little intimidating,
but exploded diagrams always look like that at first.
This is actually a really simple carburetor,
like a large holley or ford 94.
Somehow I did backspray myself in the eye with some carb cleaner.
After that it was safer to clean with some denatured alcohol and a brush.
 |
| streamlined motorcraft 2100 carburetor |
A short while later,
and the puzzle was reassembled.
 |
| how to keep your volkswagen alive |
Since I'm a faithful follower of the
"how to keep your volkswagen alive" mentality...
the best automotive manual ever.
I decided to basically ditch the entire choke mechanism.
The hole was plugged with a carriage bolt,
and the choke was wired up with some SS.
 |
| choke wired 2100 carburetor |
If you read the book,
old John Muir was not a fan of the electronic chokes,
especially if you are in a warmer climate.
Later on I'll figure out a basic pull lever or something,
like a hot rod should.
 |
| 302 ford |
A quick mock-up and it looked like the carb belonged there.
It should cause it was on that manifold!
 |
| 302 ford |
Yeah I really strung you guys along on this one huh!
Not much substance really,
but it is an important piece of the project.
TP
No comments:
Post a Comment