With the hull flipped,
the gelcoat and fiberglass issues could be addressed.
The problems were a mystery,
and the main reason the 1970 boston whaler was a good deal.
dried scum, and more paint,
in that order.
or just beer engineering.
The algae scum was stronger than the spray paint.
The boat had pox and cracks,
a mix of 60's chemical technology limitations,
years of abuse,
and sitting in the water with no bottom paint.
The hull had been out of the water long enough
to dry out the internal foam.
is to sand the gelcoat down to the green fiberglass,
coat with resin,
and build up with a new protective gelcoat layer.
but not from me.
This would be a test of 21st century resins.
Any flakey spots were sanded/ground down,
and even hammered,
until only the strong remained.
using epoxy resin and FG cloth.
A thinned resin coat seeped into the fibers and cracks,
bonding and sealing any section questionable.
The epoxy fairing compound smoothed things out.
due to moisture turning the catalyst brown.
A polyester based green autobody filler was used for this.
This method has been strong for car repair,
should be ok for a boat.
The second primer layer was much smoother.
The bow section needed a ton of bondo sculpturing,
over the built up fiberglass base.
A tough decision was made that changed the trajectory,
towards my typical ways of doing things.
I raided my stash of excess work boat paint.
a little bumpy but nice and thick.
Better than owing a painter friend at this point.
than I can live with a little orange peel.
switching the a-frame and cherry-picker sides.
as the boat had a mind of it's own.
and on the boat.
If this is all that happened,
this hull will be bulletproof enough for our use.
the trailer just dug right in.
Fiberglassed and smoothed over,
only you readers will ever know.
The sides and now had been sanded.
Good old stick welder.
Cool to see an idea become a reality.
float it in the water,
and mark the real waterline.
figure out the controls,
and whatever else is on the std list...