23 July 2011

open sesame - rear entry

See anything new or different in this picture?

where's waldo?

No, it's not new speakers.
Something to do with the 40.

Okay I'll give you a bunch of build-up clues,
 and you tell me when ya figure it out.

It all started here.

my rusty hole

First of all it was a pain in the arse to remove that rear wheel.
It was a 7.50x16 and I had to actually drop the rear end to get it out.
Uh oh.
Since the transmission has the overdrive,
the plan was to use some 6.50's or 7.00's,
but I'd like the possibility of using a taller tire.
Most likely the fender arc? will get opened up a bit.

little trim

The rear fenders have been welded to the body,
but the bolt-on or flange was never cut off
(above the above pic)
I was thinking of using it to attach the inner wheel well.
So at this point both sides are cleaned up.

front lip

While I was nestled in the rusty hole,
figured might as well do make the front fenders match.


I'm sure this will add more time to the project.
Getting rid of nasty rusty sheetmetal feels good though.

Next was making some donkey dicks.
They're basically 1" steel tubes with the tops capped.

donkey dicks

I had welded inserts in the frame during it's buildup,
and had made the mounting plates at the same time.
So the body supports were rooted in these positions.
Glad I was thinking, or overthinking back then!


Next was attaching the body to the sticks.
The idea was to spread the load to a wider point than the tube top,
since its gonna be rigid and its basically only a sheetmetal angle.

I gotta make a little point here,
that this was all done over a periods of a couple hours over a couple days.
Also I'd have to crawl through the door and around the frame each time.
Make a measurement, crawl through the door.
Cut and weld some tube, crawl through the door.
Forget to plug in the grinder, crawl through the door.
Forget the welding mask....okay.

At this junction most everything was made using scrap.
I had made some bad test pieces and decided to go and buy some steel.

$10 pipe

This was exactly what I was needing.
So made a jig and bent some pipe.

bender jig

This stuff can be bent easily,
however it was important to be symmetrical,
so out came the swap meet bender.


In and out the car...a couple times...
This is how I left it last night.


morning dew

This one's good too...

Grateful Dead Live at Pauley Pavilion, UCLA on 1973-11-17 : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive

I can listen to this whole show,
at least check #8-9, 14-20 than 24 if you want some good work tunes,
one of the best "morning dew" sandwiches.
(make sure your speakers can handle some bass)


Not much can get me to wake up at 5am.
I really wanted to get this done before the wife had to go to work!

What was needed were some simple brackets to attach the body to the new brace.

quick and easy

Nothing special,
just a pain in the but to crawl in there and weld them decently overhead.
At the last minute,
I decided to cut out the smaller "weld-hinge" for a larger greased version,
than make the plate to fit the new hinge pivot.

hinges ready

Now's the exciting part.
Cutting off the tacks holding the decklid on.


Very relieving that the body or decklid didn't budge at this point.
Still have some gap work on the other side though.

open sesame!

This was about 15 minutes before I had to leave.
So nice.
And it's rock solid,
way better than the old temporary hinge bracket.

1940 ford coupe gets a working decklid

Besides the fact that this opened up a huge amount of work
- skinning the inner wheelwells, rear floor, rear pan etc.
-finishing the rubber seal lip, the inner decklid skin...

stool time

More importantly,
I can now start the doors.
Most of the door work can be done with the doors fake hinged,
but there will be a time when the doors will be tacked in,
and I'll have to crawl through the back.

Yawn... looking at this I'm ready for a nap!


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