Dang it I let this update simmer a bit too long,
a little backed up here!
We left the coupe with a major problem,
a drag based rearend setup,
limiting the ride height to what you see here.
that didn't look good with or without fenders.
The first order was to make sure the '57 chevy rear would fit,
as the wheels exceeded the width of the fenders.
May be an old mini-truck trend?
Whatever the reasoning was,
Mario set it right ordering some less deep rims.
the firewall was trimmed back a bit.
More on that later,
as the new rims arrived before I finished.
The max setback was a 1.5" difference.
Would it work?
Almost too perfect,
the tire was flush with the fender lip.
and figure out how to mount this rear end.
and of course he brought his best pair.
Always fun to dig out the original spring clamp.
A friend Jason likes the water soak trick,
letting the rust bloom,
supposedly loosening up the seized bolt.
so if that way works is a mystery.
My go to method is drilling a hole,
and finish off with careful torch work.
But not this time,
the gas bottles were empty.Instead a progression of drilled hole sizes,
then good old pounding with a hammer and chisel.
Probably the safest way to do this,
as the metal isn't at risk of torch marks,
needing touch-up welding.
is the spring mounts to the forged perch end,
and the rear mounts with a simple bracket.
The end result is a clean traditional prewar suspension,
the original ladder bars.
All our hot rods are like this,
both 40's and Chief,
using 8", 9" and banjo rear ends.
Should be easy right?
What's wrong with this picture?
The spring doesn't line up with the perch.
the '33-34 ford rear spring curves forward.
>Now that 8" spring to rear centerline.
>was off by almost 1.25".
I can see why people use cheesy aftermarket brackets!
Internet whizzes had no easy fix.It took some thinking to come up with a solution.
Actually a lot of thinking.
Here's the "How to mount a 1933/1934 ford rear end
using 1936 radius rods!"
First the rear mounting tabs were cut off,
as the axle would need to be in that spot.
and rotated to the correct angle.
With the spring installed in the crossmember,
the body weight rested on the spring ends.
No guessing at spring compression.
and clamped in place.
a template was trimmed up.
Couldn't be easier.
until a final mockup.
The rear end angle set
and a couple quick tacks...
if you like a slammed rear.
the rear sat on the bumpstops.
First the tabs were welded up...
I think this was the third time installing the spring.
but it's not resting on the frame/bumpstops anymore.
The fender wasn't totally aligned for the pic,
so it seems a little forward.
kinda tucked in but not airbag low.
A little black paint...
which caused a bit of a problem,
as it was so rusty earlier it barely moved.
were welded to the new crossmember piece...
to beef up the weak spot.
Mario thought there wasn't enough rake.
The easiest fix was to flatten the front crossmember.
Over an inch drop just in cut and weld.
Finally an easy win.
We threw on the fenders,
and had a chin scratch.
most likely a result of the greased rear spring.
an inch spacer would do the trick.
Later on he can re-arch the spring or replace it.
Two 1/2" spacers were torched out...
rear shocks, firewall and pedals...