Time for a little interruption in the Ventura chronicles,
for an important gearhead update.
I've been s-l-o-w-l-y fiddling with the brakes on the green 40,
and yesterday the mission was completed.
The remaining rear lines weren't terribly difficult,
as NAPA had a series of brake line adapters that had the different nuts needed.
Only the two long rear lines needed reflaring.
With everything hopefully tightened up,
it was finally time to add some brake fluid.
This was a monumental step,
as the disc brake kit was bought in April of last year.
(Still need to finish up the floor...)
I had scrounged a really cool MITYVAC brake bleeder kit,
and wow this made it so much easier to suck out the bubbles.
At the end I had Jakob pump the brakes the traditional way,
and it was amazing there were no bubbles.
The only serious leak issue was in this brass splitter.
Cranking it down didn't seal it up,
so tight I thought the brass threads would strip.
I ended up cheating and using some Loctite 567,
it's got a 10K psi rating,
and so far it's sealed up without over-cranking.
Good chit.
Next time I'll dab this on all the threads,
as it also works as a lubricant.
Super cool to finally have brakes!
Now time to button up all the little things.
This was a weird one,
the speedway disc brake had a series of adapters,
and the spindle nut was about 1/16" too far out.
A cotter pin wouldn't slide in.
I checked to make sure everything was seated correctly,
and the only fix was to file out the castellated nut groove.
The exhaust magnified a couple issues with the engine.
With open pipes it sounded great.
With the dual pipes there was an obvious miss.
There ended up being a cracked spark plug,
but more importantly I noticed a fat gap.
Remember when I was doing that electronic ignition trick?
Well that was tossed out temporarily for the stock points.
The plugs need a wide 060 gap for the electronic ignition,
but only an 035 or so gap for the points.
With the proper gap and replacement plug,
the engine ran so much better.
Gonna pick up the driveshaft later today,
so may be driveable really soon!
TP
for an important gearhead update.
 |
| jakob - master brake pumper |
I've been s-l-o-w-l-y fiddling with the brakes on the green 40,
and yesterday the mission was completed.
 |
| spaghetti |
The remaining rear lines weren't terribly difficult,
as NAPA had a series of brake line adapters that had the different nuts needed.
Only the two long rear lines needed reflaring.
 |
| 1936 ford rear wishbone setup |
With everything hopefully tightened up,
it was finally time to add some brake fluid.
This was a monumental step,
as the disc brake kit was bought in April of last year.
 |
| juiced |
(Still need to finish up the floor...)
I had scrounged a really cool MITYVAC brake bleeder kit,
and wow this made it so much easier to suck out the bubbles.
At the end I had Jakob pump the brakes the traditional way,
and it was amazing there were no bubbles.
 |
| mityvac II brake bleeder |
The only serious leak issue was in this brass splitter.
Cranking it down didn't seal it up,
so tight I thought the brass threads would strip.
I ended up cheating and using some Loctite 567,
it's got a 10K psi rating,
and so far it's sealed up without over-cranking.
Good chit.
Next time I'll dab this on all the threads,
as it also works as a lubricant.
Super cool to finally have brakes!
 |
| loctite 567 |
Now time to button up all the little things.
This was a weird one,
the speedway disc brake had a series of adapters,
and the spindle nut was about 1/16" too far out.
A cotter pin wouldn't slide in.
 |
| nut mods |
I checked to make sure everything was seated correctly,
and the only fix was to file out the castellated nut groove.
 |
| nutty |
The exhaust magnified a couple issues with the engine.
With open pipes it sounded great.
With the dual pipes there was an obvious miss.
There ended up being a cracked spark plug,
but more importantly I noticed a fat gap.
Remember when I was doing that electronic ignition trick?
Well that was tossed out temporarily for the stock points.
The plugs need a wide 060 gap for the electronic ignition,
but only an 035 or so gap for the points.
With the proper gap and replacement plug,
the engine ran so much better.
Gonna pick up the driveshaft later today,
so may be driveable really soon!
TP
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